Batch Sparging vs. Fly Sparging

This is a debate that has been going on among all-grain brewers for a while now. Which is the better method? How
do you perform a batch sparge? What are the pros and cons? We will be answering all of these questions. As with
any process in brewing, your choice is your own. We suggest trying both methods to see which one you prefer.

What is sparging?
Sparging is the stage in the all-grain brewing process when you are rinsing all of the converted sugars off of the
grain bed and into your brew kettle. The fly sparging method is tried and true and has been used for centuries. This
method involves some kind of sparging device that will allow you to slowly add water above the grain bed while
simultaneously draining an equal amount of wort into your kettle. While it is an efficient, time-tested method, it is
very time consuming for the home brewer.
Batch sparging provides a way for the brewer to cut quite a bit of time out of the process. You will lose a little
efficiency, but since grain is so cheap (less than 2 bucks a pound), this is easily remedied by adding another 10-15%
base malt to your grain bill. Batch sparging also does not require any additional equipment to perform.

How Do I Batch Sparge?
Simply put, batch sparging is pouring all of your sparge water over the grain bed in 2 or 3 additions (depending on
the size of your batch and the capacity of your equipment), then draining the wort from your mash tun into your
brew kettle. Here’s the step-by-step:
1. First you’ll need to determine the amount of water you’ll need for each step. For the mash, this is going to be
calculated the same way you usually do, aproximately 1.25-1.5 quarts of water per pound of grain. The amount of
sparge water you’ll need is a fixed volume as opposed to a ratio. After you collect your first runnings, just figure
out how much more wort you’ll need for your pre-boil volume and use that amount. Of course, how much preboil
volume you’ll need is directly related to how much boil-off you get; you’ll have to guess that for the first few
batches, usually somewhere between 1-2 gallons per hour. For example, if you’re making a 5-gallon batch, you’ll
need to end up with about 5.75 gallons in your fermenter. Allowing for boil-off, this means you’ll need a total of
about 6.75-7.25 gallons of wort. Let’s say you’re grain bill is 10 lbs. This means you’ll need 12.5-15 qts. of water
for the mash. This will yield between 3 and 3.5 gallons of wort. Subtracting this amount from your total desired
volume, you’ll need 3.75-4.25 gallons of sparge water. This water should be between 170-175 degrees F.
2. Perform your mash as usual.
3. Open the valve on your mash tun and drain 1-2 quarts into a pitcher. Slowly pour this back into the mash tun,
trying not to disturb the grain bed too much. This is called vorlauf. Your main objective here is to establish the
grain bed as a filter for the wort being drawn off. When the wort runs mostly clear (meaning no large pieces of
grain material, usually after 3-4 times) the vorlauf process is complete and sparging may begin.
4. Drain your mash tun completely. Take note of the volume for future reference.
5. Pour 1/3 to 1/2 of your sparge water into the mash tun. Now you’ll want to stir up the grain bed to get all those
sugars back into solution. You don’t want to stir vigorously; if the mash has foam on top of it, you’ve stirred too
much or too vigorously. Now let it sit for about 10 minutes.
6. Repeat Step 3 by draining and replacing 1-2 quarts at a time until the runnings are relatively clear. Notice that this
time the wort has a bit less color than the first time.
7. Open the spigot and drain the sweet wort into your brew kettle.
You may need to perform Steps 3 through 7 a third time if your equipment has a smaller capacity.

Advantages/disadvantages of batch sparging
There are advantages and disadvantages to either sparging method. Every brewer is different, and you may find that
you prefer one method over another. Try them both and see what works for you.

Less time: Since you’re not waiting for all of that sparge water to slowly drain into and out of your mash tun, batch
sparging could cut 30-45 minutes out of your brew time.
No stuck sparges: When fly sparging, sometimes the grain bed becomes compacted and the wort stops coming out
of the spigot. Any all-grain brewer that’s experienced this will tell you that this is frustrating and difficult to correct.
When you batch sparge, there is little worry of this happening because of the volume of water flowing through.
Lower equipment cost: Batch sparging requires NO additional equipment.
Less chance of tannin extraction: With fly sparging, there is some danger of extracting bitter tannins from your
grains as the pH of the grain bed drops toward the end of the sparge. In batch sparging, you have no worries
because the pH in the batch is constant, and does not ever reach down to those tannin extracting levels.

Extraction efficiency: As a general rule, you will lose a little bit of efficiency batch sparging vs. fly sparging. Since this
is so easily overcome for the homebrewer by simply adding 10-15% more base malt, this is almost a non-issue.
Cost: More base malt will cost more money. However, at less than 2 bucks per pound, this won’t hurt too much.
Fewer cool gadgets: It is true, we homebrewers do love our gadgets. Some like to buy them, some like to build their
own. I don’t know if this is really a disadvantage, but hey, maybe you like showing off your sparge arm!
At any rate, brewing is a fun hobby in which many people use many different methods. None of them are wrong,
just experiment and use the methods that you like best.

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